Tuesday, October 9, 2007

Yarn Blues - When Worsted Just Isn't Enough


One of the best things about buying yarn for knitting is the absolute profusion of varieties and colors currently available. Walk into any yarn shop and the array of all things woven can be quite overwhelming.


The best part of all is deciding which color to use. Violets, purple haze, tangerine and rose, lime, turquoise or sunflower.(I just know there is a great name for a rock band in there somewhere!)


Yet, some specialty yarns appear too delicate to knit with, and the question arises, just what should I knit?


Keep in mind with so many of the fun fur, boucle, super- bulky, suede, mohair or fun-fetti yarns, if you knit wih just one type, occasionly, (not always) the delicacy of the yarn is just not enough to look like anything sustainable.


So, what to do with all those luscious looking yarns I see on the shelves in the yarn shop?


Here are a few tips that can help you whenever you use specialty yarns:


Tip #1: Remember needle size is important. When you mix yarns, add together the suggested needle sizes. If the first yarn calls for size 6 needles and the second yarn calls for size 8 needles, then start with size 14 or thereabouts until your pattern feels workable.


Tip #2: Needles come in different types. There are metal, wood, coated, or bamboo. Some yarns work well with certain needles, and others can be difficult to knit on. Experiment for what works best.


Tip #3: Experiment with texture. Love those wispy yarns, but don't know what to do with them? Incorporate them with a sturdier, colorful yarn for a knitting surprise! Especially when knitting scarves or purses, be bold; you never know what you'll come up with!


Tip #4: Try an eyelash yarn with a popcorn texture; or a boucle with a ribbon contrast; mohair with something slightly chunky. I like mixing colors that too often don't seem to go together; in knitting, they look fabulous!


Tip #5: When using specialty yarns, knit simpler patterns. Don't get all lacy when knitting with two yarns coming at you, rather then the traditional one skein. Oftentimes, garter stitch is the way to go. And, specialty yarns tend to be a bit pricier than classic yarns, and if knitting anything very large, you can end up spending a lot of money.


So, there you have it! Get knitting!








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My Top 6 Favorite Knitting Gadgets


One of the best things about having a hobby is buying everything you need and even some things that you don't! If you are into cars or motorcycles, chances are you spend a lot of extra money on accessories, don't you? Cooking, exercising, camping, gardening, hiking, - you name it, there are accessories for every amusement under the sun!


Knitting is no different. Gadgets abound, and you can get lost in a sea of extras. They all look good, but what is necessary, and what can you leave for another time? Let me tell you about some of the knitting gadgets that are available to knitters, and then I will tell you my top *6* favorite knitting gadgets.


Needles and yarn aside, if you look around there are numerous knitting gadgets. There are stitch markers, used for marking a particular place in your knitting where decreases or increases take place; row counters which keep track of each row as you are knitting; point protectors which are placed on the needle points to protect your work as well as yourself; bobbins, pom-pom makers, stitch gauges, graph paper, yarn swifts and ball winders, which can be useful for certain advanced knitting projects, but will probably spend more time collecting dust for most knitters.


So that is why now we come to my top *6* favorite knitting gadgets,


and why I like them so:


#1 – Tape measure - for knitting, as for sewing, your tape measure will prove to be indispensable. Whatever the project, you always have need to know the length and width of your knitting. Make sure if your tape measure wears out or becomes distorted in any way, that you replace it. This item helps to make you look good!


#2 – Scissors - I like the small variety, especially the ones that fold up. They are handy to take anywhere (well, almost anywhere), and you can expect to use them frequently. But, if you have larger scissors, they work, too. I would not recommend pinking shears, though; they are for sewing projects only.


#3 – Cable needles - as you become more adept at knitting, one of the easiest new stitches to add on is the cable stitch. Cable stitches can be knitted in many variations, but they always need the cable needle in order to utilize the stitch. Cable needles come in various sizes, and are always pointed at both ends. Some have a "bend" in them, and some are "U" shaped, while most are simply straight. They are also shorter than a traditional, straight, knitting needle. So if a pattern calls for cable stitches, better have some cable needles around!


#4 – Stitch holders - these look like giant safety pins. They are especially handy when knitting sweaters and you need to place the neck stitches someplace until you need them again, so on to the stitch holder they go! Stitch holders can be very small (2" or so) up to about 10" in length. There are many varieties, but stay with the simple versions, for best results.


#5 – Yarn needle - aka a tapestry needle. These needles are longer than regular sewing needles, and have blunter points and larger eyes. They are used to join your patterns together when finished. For any knitter, they are a must-have.


#6 – Pins - last but not least, pins! Anyone who sews or knits, needs pins; straight pins, safety pins, T- pins. When you buy straight pins, make sure they have colored tops; these are easiest to see in your knitting. T- pins are great for blocking your patterns, and also good for pinning heavier knits together. Safety pins always make a great substitute for stitch holders, or to mark a spot in your knitting that you need to refer to later on.


So, there you have it! Six gadgets I can't live without when I knit. If you are very serious about knitting, and like to see your project look its best when finished, then these *6* wonderful knitting gadgets should always be close by.








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Know These Important Things Before You Learn How To Knit


Did you ever enjoy texture of yarns in your hand or wondering how that interesting color pattern was created in your favorite sweater? Then you will surely have fun learning the art of knitting. Knitting is one of several ways to turn thread or yarn into cloth-weaving and crochet. It’s all about creativity.


The Introductory Steps of Knitting


Unlike woven fabric, knitted fabric consists entirely of horizontal parallel courses of yarn. The courses are joined to each other by interlocking loops in which a short loop of one course of yarn is wrapped over the bight of another course. Knitting can be done either by hand, described below, or by machine. What makes knitting even more exciting is the fact that this art can be easily learned.


In practice, hand knitting is usually begun by forming a base series of twisted loops of yarn on a needle. This is called Cast On. A second knitting needle is then used to reach through each loop in succession in order to snag a bight of yarn and pull a length back through the loop. This forms a new stitch. Work can proceed in the round (circular knitting) or by going back and forth in rows. Knitting can also be done by machines, which use a different mechanical system to produce nearly identical results.


Knitting Styles: There are two basic styles of knitting; English and Continental. The difference between the two is in how you hold the yarn. In the English method the yarn is held in the right hand. In continental knitting, the yarn is held in the left hand. Whatever your natural hand-preference, you should be able to master either method because the nature of knitting is basically ambidextrous.


The two basic stitches are knit or plain and purl or wrong. These two nominal stitches are actually identical, however, being the obverse and reverse of the same stitch. It is the variations and combinations of these two stitches that create all the different stitch patterns which are possible in knitting. Typically, a knit stitch is formed by inserting the needle in the front of the loop from a left-to-right perspective and pulling a loop of yarn through to form a new loop, while a purl stitch is formed by inserting the needle in the front of the loop from a right-to-left perspective.


A piece of knitting begins with the process of casting on, which involves the initial creation of the stitches on the needle. Casting on is the first step in knitting These stitches become the first row of stitches and one selvage of your work, usually the bottom or hem.


Different methods of cast on are used for different effects; one may be stretchy enough for lace, while another provides a decorative edging. Provisional cast on is used when the knitting will continue in both directions from the cast on.


The body of a knitted piece may include plain stitches or a number of colors and textured patterns. The number of active stitches remains the same as when cast on unless stitches are added -an increase or removed- a decrease to shape the item.


Patterns to Knit (Way to Online Income): There are lots of people who sit at home and publish great knitting patters from home. Since over the years they have collected and modified many knitting patterns. They make a great income by selling/publishing the patterns on the net. Once you have enough practice, even you could make some online income.


Many patterns can be made by using knit and purl stitches in various combinations. If only knits or only purls are used when working back and forth in rows, the result is called garter stitch.


Alternating rows of knits and purls result in stockinette stitch, also known as stocking or jersey stitch, the stitch most often used in commercial garments such as T-shirts. Different combinations of stitches can be used to form ribbing, cables, or other textures.


Once the knitted piece is finished, the remaining live stitches are cast off. Casting or binding off loops the stitches across each other so they can be removed from the needle without unraveling the item. Although the mechanics are different from casting on, there are a similar variety of methods and choices to be made. Of the various methods the most versatile are the Plain Bind-off and the Suspended Bind-off.


Knitted garments are most commonly made in pieces, where individual sections of the garment are knit separately and then sewn together once all the pieces have been completed. Seamless knitting, where a whole garment is knit as a single piece is also possible. Smaller items, such as socks and hats are usually knit in one piece on double pointed needles.


Knitting can be easily learned these days as there are many websites on knitting and also various books for beginners available on the market, where you can find step by step instructions. These instructions are so easy to follow that even kids would not find them difficult at all. Show your creativity, grab your knitting tools and learn to knit today!


Copyright 2006 B Hopkins








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An Afghan Sampler 103


If I could give you all there is to know about yarns, and which ones to use for all your knitting projects, it would take up a year's worth of newsletters!


What I will do, is to concentrate on the good stuff..... that is, the information you will need to begin any afghan adventure.


There are yarns that work wonderfully with afghans, and there are yarns which I wouldn't think of using. Remember, afghans are big projects; it's your stitchery that you want to show off, and the simpler choice of yarn is what you should be after.


I recommend worsted weight or sport weight yarn. And, what are these, you ask?


Worsted yarn is smooth, and even-textured. It knits up about 5 stitches per inch. Worsted is probably the most popular yarn used by knitters.


Sport yarn is very much like worsted, but it will feel softer to the touch. Along with sport weight yarn, you will see yarns such as DK yarn, which stands for double-knitting. This yarn is a tad finer than worsted yarn.


For really thick yarns, turn to the Aran or fisherman yarns, but I do not recommend these either for afghan knitting.


Do not get involved with yarns such as chenille or chunky yarns. Not to say these are great yarns for other projects, but for afghans, they do not fit in very well.


Baby yarns are perfect for baby creations; the softness makes them too soft for a durable afghan venture. There is also a yarn known as fingering yarn; it is very delicate and I always use it when working open-work or lace patterns.


I know the first thing we see whenever we visit the yarn section in a craft store is all that crazy, colorful, snazzy, new yarn, which comes in so many fabulous shades and tints, that we just have to buy at least a few in order to make something with them! Save these for scarves, or little accessories; but don't use them for afghans.


The one yarn I haven't mentioned yet is wool. Wool makes a great insulator, and has some stretch to it, and if you wish to use it for an afghan, by all means do so. Personally, I leave the wool yarn for favorite projects, such as vests or sweaters. They always look great.


Always remember, when knitting an afghan, it is your knitting expertise that you want to show off; whether you knit in squares, or strips, or just one long pattern, your afghan will reflect what you know about knitting. Some of the simplest stitches will look like the most complicated of patterns; and you will be just as surprised as everyone else when you assemble your project and discover you have the most beautiful of afghans!








Keep YOUR knitting on the "Cutting Edge" with FREE patterns. The place where smart knitters gather resources and share stories. FREE Details ==>http://www.theknitstitch.com

Knitting Stitches: 5 Most Popular Knitting Stitch Types


Welcome to the wonderful world of knitting! Even if you've been here for a while, there is always something new about this most fascinating craft!


Let me start by introducing you to the five stitch types that I believe are at the very heart of knitting!


Learning to knit, you know, is nothing more than learning different knitting stitch types.


Wherever I roam on the Web, many of the same questions arise. Over and over again, I come across forums and discussions with the same types of concerns.


In this article, I will attempt to explain some of the basic knitting stitches and everything they encompass.


I will talk about 'the knit stitch', 'the purl stitch', 'knit 2 together', 'yarn-over', and the 'stockinette stitch'.


These five stitches, I believe, form the very foundation of knitting. Learn, and perfect, each one of these, and you will be well on your way to becoming an expert in knitting!


All other patterns emerge from these few stitches. So, let's begin!


'The Knit Stitch'. Have you ever looked at something knitted? I mean, really looked? If you have, you will see one side of the knitting looks different from the other.


Knitting follows structures. The knit stitch is formed by making loops which interweave with one another; one after another.


The knit stitch will resemble little "v" patterns when viewed from the knit side of a pattern.


To form a "knit stitch" you use one needle to pull a loop of yarn through the existing stitch on the other needle. (You can knit with more than two needles, but that's a discussion for another day.)


Holding both needles in your hands, insert the right needle, from "front to back" into the first stitch on the left needle. Keeping the yarn at the back, bring it "over" the tip of the needle, counterclockwise. Pull the yarn down, and catch it with the right needle.


Slip the "old" stitch off the left needle and you have a new stitch on the right needle! A knit stitch!


Many times you will be told the knit stitch is the "right side" or RS of your work. But, once in a while, it will be the "wrong side" or WS.


Either way, it's good to know those two abbreviations.


'The Purl Stitch'. The purl stitch will resemble what looks like "brick-face" when viewed from the purl side of a pattern.


Unlike the knit stitch, with the purl stitch, you hold the yarn to the "front" of your knitting.


Insert the right needle from "back to front" into the first stitch on the left needle. With your right index finger, wrap yarn counterclockwise around and down the right needle.


Draw the right needle and yarn backwards through the "old" stitch. Slip off the old stitch. A new stitch forms. A purl stitch!


'Knit 2 Together.' Now, this is easy! Just knit two together! Insert the right needle into the second stitch from the tip of the left needle, making sure to "catch" the first stitch with it.


Bring your yarn over and up, then down, catch your yarn, slip the old stitches off, and you have a new stitch in their place.


You will have only one new stitch from two. Knitting two together is often used to decrease stitches or to create an open-work pattern.


'Yarn-over'. Adding a yarn-over, or YO, is also used when creating open-work designs. To do a yarn-over after a knit stitch, just bring your yarn across your work from the back to the front. Then, knit the next stitch.


You will see an extra "stitch" on the row. When you come to that stitch in your next row of knitting, it will not look anchored like the others. That's because you put it there, all of itself.


Knit it like you would knit any stitch. As you go, you will see that yarn-overs create "holes" or openwork designs in your knitting.


'Stockinette Stitch'. This stitch is knitting's most common. All it consists of is knitting one row, then purling the next, and so on, and so on.


The stockinette stitch is exactly where every knitter should begin. And stick with it until you know your stitches well!


So there you have it! *5* most popular knitting stitch types!


Get knitting!


Copyright 2006 Alice Seidel








Keep YOUR knitting on the "Cutting Edge" with FREE patterns. The place where smart knitters gather resources and share stories. FREE Details ==>http://www.theknitstitch.com

Teddy Bears - Why Not Make Your Own?


A really great present to get for your own child or a relative’s is a teddy bear that you’ve made yourself. Basic teddies are actually surprisingly easy to make, but you’re free to put as little or as much effort in as you want. If you spend a long time on it, you can make a teddy to rival anything put out by the big teddy manufacturers.


Although there are many fabrics and methods you can use to make a teddy, probably the best is knitting with yarn. It is easy to find yarn in a very good teddy-like shade of brown, and teddy knitting patterns are readily available all over the Internet – search for ‘teddy knitting’ to find whole sites devoted to knitting teddies and other soft animal toys.


Once you have the pattern, you need to find a good stuffing for the teddy. Cotton wool is an easy to find, cheap and soft material, but you can stuff a teddy with almost anything you want. Avoid man-made materials and stick to the natural stuff and you shouldn’t go far wrong.


When it comes to making the eyes and the nose, plastic buttons will do, but the best material to use is glass beads. Two black glass beads will give your teddy beautiful, friendly eyes, and they don’t even cost all that much from most craft stores.


To finish the teddy off, you can tie a silk bow around its body or its hair, to make it look like a really pretty present. Fix it in place with a few threads so it can’t come untied, and it can become a permanent feature of the teddy.


One warning, though: making teddies can be very addictive! Once you’ve made your first one, it’s tempting to just keep on going. But then, there’s nothing wrong with that, is there?








John Gibb is the owner of TeddyBear information For more information on Teddy Bears check out http://www.TeddyBear-information.info

Knitting's Top *10* Abbreviations!


Doesn't it seem that everywhere you look, there is another Top Ten list?


Just turn on your TV, and there goes Jennifer Aniston, or Brad Pitt, and, even people like Marilyn Monroe, still seen posing on the red carpet, always being talked about as in the Top Ten!


Food shows, home shows, boat shows, MTV, Letterman, you name it, everyone has a Top Ten list!


So, for the record, let there be a Top Ten for knitting, too!


Knitting has scads of abbreviations, so many in fact, you can lose yourself in the art of initialism.


Some abbreviations are used so seldom as to be almost unknown, "won", for instance, means "wool over needle", which I have never seen before!


Any time you are working with a knitting pattern, these abbreviations are sure to be there. Now, you will know what they mean!


So, take heart! The most important ones are as follows:


(and for good reason, as you will shortly find out --)


#10 -- sl - means "slip". As in slip the next stitch from the left needle to the right. You do not see this abbreviation too much, but, if you are working in a lacy pattern, it will be there. Also, any time a pattern calls for variations, "sl" can be one of the abbreviations used.


#9 -- beg - means "beginning". Usually when determining length, you will see this used. Most patterns have you measuring length from the beginning, but, some patterns measure from other areas such as ribbing, or shoulder, or neck.


#8 -- RS - and no those aren't my husband's initials, (well, not in this guise, anyway). RS = right side. It is extremely vital to always be aware of what side you are knitting on; especially when cable stitches or other specialty stitches are being used.


#7 -- St st - now, doesn't that look redundant! Actually, it stands for Stockinette stitch, which is the signature stitch of knitting! When you knit one row, then purl the next, and do those two rows over and over, you are knitting the Stockinette stitch.


#6 -- K2tog - means "knit 2 together." You may be decreasing stitches on a row, or making "holes", so to speak; whatever it is, k2tog will help get the job done. Holes, in knitting, make your work take on an openwork look, or a lace design.


#5 -- YO - means to "yarn over." Again, when knitting lacy patterns which call for an openwork design, the YO is front- page stuff! In fact, YO is the very essence of openwork design.


#4 -- BO - means to "bind off." Once in a while you will see it as "cast off"; they both mean the same thing. When you are finished with your knitting, you will BO all the stitches on the needle and begin your finishing techniques.


#3 -- CO - means to "cast on." This is your foundation row, where you begin your knitting. Any time you begin a new segment to your knitting project, you will always start with CO.


#2 -- P - is for purl. The purl stitch is, of course, "knitted" into the front of your needle, and the yarn is also held to the front. Some beginners find the purl stitch a little harder to work than the knit stitch. With practice, the purl stitch is a breeze!


#1 -- K - is for knit. The knit stitch is what it's all about! A simple stitch into the back of the needle, combined with other stitch variations will make the most divine creations under the sun! Knitting every row gives you what is called the garter stitch, not be mistaken with that harmless, backyard snake!


So, there you have it!


These Top Ten knitting abbreviations only make up the most common, and popular abbreviations. Knitting has lots more where they come from!


Until next time, ready, set, knit!!


Copyright 2006 Alice Seidel








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Keep YOUR knitting on the "Cutting Edge" with FREE patterns. The place where smart knitters gather resources and share stories.


FREE Details ==>http://www.theknitstitch.com